Termas de Chillan

Another conference for DH to attend last week so again a perfect opportunity for us to join him and explore another of South America's many wonders... This time the conference location was Concepcion, a university town a few regions south of Santiago and most remembered as the epicentre of 2010's devastating earthquake. However, as Chile is such a thin country, one can easily choose whether to head for the sea or the mountains from just about anywhere. We chose the latter after being wooed by tantalising descriptions of one of Chile's foremost mountain resorts in the form of the thermal baths of Chillan. Despite an eight-hour journey from our home in Santiago to the remote mountain valley, we were not disappointed...
Travelling by train first of all was quite a novelty, especially for the first hour or two. The train was surprisingly spacious and the girls were busy with their activity books and picnic lunch, even staying in their places for a while... Later there was a moment of restlessness but numerous trips to the rubbish bin at the top of the carriage seemed to provide enough amusement to see them through. On arrival at Chillan our transfer to the mountains was a minibus/people carrier which also met with plenty of approval from our intrepid smaller travellers, though the winding roads caused us a few hairy moments. We were relieved to arrive at our destination, swathed in mist and appearing in the semi-darkness more similar to the Scottish Highlands or possibly the Alps than anything else. Luckily our lodging was a cosy mountain refuge complete with huge chimney places, soft comfortable armchairs and open beams...
As the skiing season ended over a month ago now, it was low season and very quiet, therefore for us the best possible time to visit. We were practically the only guests along with what appeared to be a couple on honeymoon (whom we hardly saw, probably their choice) so had the dining room, living room and even outdoor hot thermal baths all to ourselves, much to our pleasure. We wrapped up in warm jackets and scarves for exploratory walks to nearby waterfalls and savage woodlands while admiring snow-covered mountains set against the dramatic backdrop of a volcano. It was incredibly atmospheric and invigorating as well as being relaxing and pampering, although the girls probably tired of the full board before we did... A weekend was just enough to appreciate the wild beauty of our environment whilst also enjoying the distance and remoteness from the hustle and bustle of the big city, though the prospect to returning to heat and sunlight was also appealing as we began the long journey back yesterday afternoon...

November news

Well it's November so it must be...spring. It doesn't seem quite so strange this year and after having had to endure winter during the traditional summer months I certainly don't feel guilty about it this time. Flowers are blooming, adorning corners of the city with incredible colour and exuding heady scents while filling the air with thick, snow-like pollen. Snow itself is now scarcely visible on our now familiar mountains whose bare rock has begun to glow with our long light evenings and spectacular sunsets. We have taken up our rugs, put away our jumpers and scrubbed down our terrace which had been coated in layer upon layer of soot... This must be one of the dustiest cities in the world with dry particle-filled air which is almost never washed clean by rain (a phenomenon so rare that one can live without waterproofs). However the upside is almost constant year-round sun... hence hats and sunblock are now required items for the children's rucksacks.
With only a month to go, the countdown to the end of the school year has begun, with shows being prepared, songs practised and costumes fitted... DD1 is tired after a whole year of getting up unspeakably early thus even she is now beginning to look forward to the summer break (though is probably unaware that it is nearly three months long). Our building's swimming pool has recently been reopened for the summer season so at the moment I foresee plenty of dips to keep us busy... though we haven't yet been in. No rush...
Meanwhile at DD2's nursery they are preparing for the annual Far West Camp, during which the boys dress up as cowboys, the girls as natives and those whose parents agree get to spend the night in a tent in the nursery's garden with the "tias"... DD2 was all for it until she realised we wouldn't be coming too. Luckily it coincides with a prior arrangement we had already made so we all have a five-hour train journey south of Santiago to look forward to instead which we feel a bit happier about...

The other side of the mountains

DD1 has often asked me what is on the other side of the great awe-inspiring mountains which constantly loom large and majestic over us here in the eastern elevated side of Santiago. Thus when DH had to attend a conference in Cordoba, Argentina it seemed like as good an opportunity as any to tag along and see for ourselves what lay beyond... Many people drive from Santiago to Mendoza up and over an apparently spectacularly breathtaking mountain pass, crossing the frontier to Argentina on the way. Cordoba however was quite a bit further north and east so we decided to take a short hop by plane, thereby minimising the possibility of car sickness (alas a crucial consideration) and drastically reducing the journey length...
On arrival and while travelling from the airport into the city, Argentina was immediately and noticeably different: greener and flatter at first, becoming hilly as we approached the city. Cordoba itself was a pleasant treasure-trove, full of historic buildings from the time of the Jesuit settlers who industriously constructed several churches, schools and libraries. The streets around the old town were buzzing as were the newer areas around the canal, packed with students drinking mate (an Argentinian tradition) and lots of bars, cafes and restaurants... One could have been forgiven for thinking that one was in Spain. People were friendly, food was interesting and varied and all in all it was rich in culture. The girls and I even managed to do two museums in one day which was quite a result, although they drew the line at an academic lecture in Jesuit architecture, preferring to explore the cloisters and courtyard while a guide earnestly explained the intricacies of the early conferral of university degrees in the Salon de los grados...
A most enjoyable and refreshing city break, all the more pleasurable for its flavour of Europe and feel of the Old World which seem so far away from Chile...